Message from JK

(This is the third post. To start at the beginning click "Deja Vu" at right, then work your way up. I know I promised an account of the US/China basketball game next, but for now you'll have to settle for Jonathan's email to his parents, sent August 14, Day 7.)

Sorry we have been so incommunicado. It has been logistically difficult to write because we are either at something, wrangling monsters or passed out. Wanted to send a brief update but we’ll say more when we get back.

We are having a good time and enjoy going to the games. The program that I was teaching in concluded on the evening of the 12^th. My session went well and was positively received – it was particularly appreciated that my remarks were quite tailored to China. IN general the program went well and it certainly provided convenience for us; we had use of a van to ferry us and my colleague Jeff Sonnenfeld (who you met a LaGuardia) with his wife and little kids. This kept us away from the paying guests – a good idea. In addition to the events, we went to the great wall and forbidden city (briefly). There was a hostpiality suite where we could get snacks all day long. This made lunch easy.

The downside of all this is that we exist in something of a cocoon. We stay at the JW Marriott hotel where all the food is Western. We went out in van or buses and were dropped off at venues. In the last couple of days we’ve been taking subway and cabs to get around which is better on this dimension but more tiring and time-consuming.

Beijing is quite different than our last visit. More built up and more green. There has clearly been an intense effort to plant trees, shrubs, grass and flowers for aesthetic and air quality reasons. It does make a difference but the city is still very spread out and dominated by huge freeway-like streets that demolish and feeling of urban-ness that persists in only a few pockets.

Alas the Olympics have a similar feeling. Sort of antiseptic. The security measures are so intense that there is absolutely no congregation of humanity (surprise!). This makes it hard to feel any Olympic spirit. Each venue has separate security with tickets required for entry. Example last night we were at tennis but wanted to go to the main gift shop on the Olympic green. Not possible because our tickets didn’t get us in there (tennis is not on the green). The net result is that it feels like you are going to a series of sporting events (which are very cool) but not attending “the Olympics” per se. Different from my admittedly old recollections of Lake Placid.

There is also a distinct lack of Chinese-ness to the games. There is nothing in the way of performance, art, decoration, or music to signal that you are in China. Indeed, even the Chinese jerseys have the team name written as “C H I N A” rather than using characters. Most strikingly, the only food available at the venues is chips, ice cream and hot dogs plus soda and water. That is IT. Seriously. It is very lame and a real lost opportunity to show off Chinese cuisine not to mention all the foregone revenue and frustrated hungry spectators. Same thing with souvenirs. There is hardly anything. Some very generic looking t-shirts and hats. The only distinctive thing is the mascots which, as a result, are very popular.

Dealing with the kids has been very tough. Perhaps because of the unusual situation (in terms of hours, living conditions, etc.) they are particularly resistant. Eating, for example, is a major problem. There is a lot of struggling over almost everything which can be maddening and makes it hard to enjoy what is going on. We try to remember they are little bananas in a tough spot and sometimes they are a total joy – cute and funny and clearly having fun. They were a huge hit with everyone at the conference. We got many many compliments on them and people were quite patient with their antics.

The blessing has been the help provided by Sukey Bernard, the daughter of fellow Fulbrighters who were in Shanghai with us. She has taken care of the kids on several days allowing us to go to a couple of events without them and generally not go totally insane. Without her here, we would have changed our return tickets by now.

Anyway, we’re winding down. Tonight is the last event for which we have tickets (volleyball). On the 16^th we go to shanghai for two days then fly home on the 18^th.

Hope all is well in Mei Guo.

Love,

J & J & E & W